Why autumn is the best season
When October arrives, Las Merindades changes color. The beech forests turn golden and reddish, the rivers flow with more water, and the air smells of wood smoke and wet earth. It is the time of year when we, who live here, enjoy the area the most, and the time we recommend most to those who ask us when to come. There are fewer people than in summer, the villages regain their quiet rhythm, and the afternoons invite you to walk without rushing and to end the day by the fireplace.
In this guide, we tell you what we do when we have a free weekend in autumn: which routes we choose, which villages we visit, what we eat, and what to pack in your suitcase. It is not a complete guide to the comarca, which would fill a book, but a selection of what we like most and what our guests appreciate most when they follow our advice.
The forests: the great spectacle
The protagonist of autumn in Las Merindades is the forest. The beech forests occupy the coolest and most humid slopes, and between late October and early November they reach their peak of color. The oak and alder forests take a little longer to change, so for several weeks the landscape shifts from green to yellow, from yellow to orange, and from orange to brown.
To enjoy the forest, you do not need to take on big hikes. Often, it is enough to leave your car at the entrance of a path and walk for half an hour among the trees. The important thing is to go slowly, look up and down, and let the silence do its work. Early in the morning, with the mist still among the trunks, the forest has something magical that is hard to describe.
Some tips for the forest in autumn:
- Get up early. The light in the early hours is the most beautiful, and the paths are empty.
- Wear waterproof footwear. Fallen leaves hide mud and slippery stones.
- Stay on marked paths. Besides being a safety measure, it is to avoid damaging the forest floor.
- Respect the mushrooms. If you are not an expert, it is better to look at them and photograph them than to pick them.
The rivers and waterfalls
Autumn is also the season of the rivers. After the first rains, the Nela, the Trueba, and the Ebro flow with more force, and the waterfalls that barely have water in summer regain their full volume. It is the best time to visit the waterfalls of the comarca, always with caution and without getting too close to the wet rocks.
One of our favorite stops is Puentedey, where the Nela river has carved a natural rock bridge over which the village stands. In autumn, with the river swollen and the trees on the banks changing color, the scene is spectacular. It is worth going down to the bank and looking at the bridge from below to understand the force the water has had for thousands of years.
Another essential visit is Orbaneja del Castillo, with its waterfall that falls between the houses down to the Ebro. In autumn, the water flows with more force than in summer, and the village, nestled between rock walls, fills with ochre tones. We recommend going on a weekday or early in the day to find it quieter.
Towns you can’t miss
Las Merindades has many charming towns, and in autumn it is tempting to wander through them at a leisurely pace, stopping for a hot drink and chatting with the locals. Here are some of our favorites:
- Espinosa de los Monterers, with its grand houses, towers, and a historic town atmosphere.
- Medina de Pomar, with the Alcázar de los Condestables overlooking the old town.
- Frías, a small city perched on a rock, featuring its castle and medieval bridge over the Ebro.
- Oña, with its monastery and an old town that invites you to stroll.
You don’t need to see them all in a single weekend. We usually recommend one or two per day, combined with a walk in the countryside, so the getaway doesn’t turn into a race from one place to another.
What to eat in autumn
Autumn is also the season for hearty, spoon-based cuisine. After a day on the road, a good plate of legumes, a Castilian soup, or a game stew is just what you need. Burgos morcilla (blood sausage), local cheese, and seasonal mushrooms appear on many menus, and any village tavern can surprise you with a simple, well-made dish.
Our advice is to always ask what is available off the menu. In many places, they cook whatever is fresh at the market that day, and that is where you will often find the best dishes. And if you have a sweet tooth, don’t leave without trying the local homemade desserts, which pair perfectly with a long after-dinner coffee in autumn.
What to pack
The weather in autumn is changeable. It may dawn with fog and frost, the sun may come out by mid-morning, and it may rain in the afternoon. That’s why it’s best to dress in layers and not rely on overly optimistic forecasts. Here is our basic list:
- A raincoat or waterproof jacket.
- A fleece or warm sweater for mornings and nights.
- Hiking boots or waterproof footwear.
- A beanie and thin gloves, especially from November onwards.
- A small flashlight, as it gets dark early.
- A camera or your phone with plenty of battery: you will be taking many photos.
Driving in the area in autumn
The roads in Las Merindades are narrow and winding, and in autumn you have to add fog, rain, and leaves on the asphalt. Drive calmly, respect the speed limits, and keep in mind that journeys take longer than the navigation system indicates. At dusk and at night, it is common to encounter animals on the road, so extra caution is advised.
If you are coming from far away, try to arrive before it gets dark. This way, you can settle in comfortably, take a short walk around the area, and start the next day with energy.
A plan for two days
If you only have a weekend, here is a simple proposal that combines nature, towns, and good food:
Saturday. In the morning, take a walk through a nearby beech forest with the first light of the day. At noon, visit Puentedey and have lunch at a local tavern. In the afternoon, stroll through Espinosa de los Monteros or Medina de Pomar and return to Posada El Prado Mayor to rest by the fire.
Sunday. Early start towards Orbaneja del Castillo to see it before more people arrive. Then, stop in Frías to see the castle and the medieval bridge. A leisurely lunch and return home in the afternoon, with your suitcase full of photos and a desire to come back.
Come and see us
If you feel like discovering Las Merindades in autumn, we would be delighted to welcome you to the posada and tell you in person about our favourite spots. We will give you maps, recommend routes based on the weather, and tell you where to eat well every day. All you have to do is book your getaway and let yourself be carried away by the colours of autumn.